Help! My Client Has Seborrheic Dermatitis

By Josephine Granato

The name sounds scary—seborrheic dermatitis, but it’s actually quite common. According to the textbook, Milady Standard Cosmetology, it is a noncontagious skin condition caused by inflammation of the sebaceous glands. It is often characterized by redness and dry or oily scaly crusting. It is mostly found on the scalp or hairline, eyebrows, beard, and sometimes on the middle of the forehead. It appears as a rash accompanied by dry or flaky skin.  

For darker skin types, seborrheic dermatitis may appear slightly purple with some dark pink colors. For lighter skin types, it will look red, with brighter pink colors. Both may illicit itchy and burning sensations. Seborrheic dermatitis can start as early as the infant stages of life. From age 2–12 months, the condition is often called “cradle cap.” Seborrheic dermatitis can also develop around adolescence and adulthood.  

What Do Hair Stylists and Barbers Need to Know About Seborrheic Dermatitis?  

First and foremost, if there are open lesions on the scalp, you should not be servicing the client. This doesn’t mean you can’t work with them, but they need to reschedule for when the lesions are closed. As hair professionals, we also need to know when we need to refer the client to get medical help from a dermatologist.  

Remember, we cannot diagnose, nor can we promise that our recommendations will be the best treatment for a particular client, but we can be a supportive resource for these clients who may already feel inhibited because of their condition. Let them know they are not alone, and that stylists see this all the time. If you haven’t already, research dermatology offices in the area and build a referral relationship with these providers for clients who may need extra care.  

There is no cure for seborrheic dermatitis, but there is treatment. For mild cases, we can help the client by recommending gentle and/or medicated over-the-counter shampoos. It’s important to note that each part of the body may be different in treatment approaches. The treatment plan we decide for the scalp, for example, may not be the same for the beard.  

Service Recommendations for Hair Clients With Seborrheic Dermatitis 

As hair professionals, we want what is best for our clients, yet there are many different products claiming to be the end-all in care for those with seborrheic dermatitis. We must be able to not only educate our clients, but also recommend the best care. Here are some basic tips: 

  • Regular deep-conditioning scalp treatments may help alleviate some of the symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis.  
  • Heat may cause flare-ups with some clients, so instead of placing them under the dryer, you can put them in a cap. This allows natural heat from the scalp to do the job.  
  • Make sure the products being used are fragrance- and alcohol-free.  

Brands may or may not have a line for scalp deficiency, so do your homework. Most of the brands I have used are Biolage (they just revamped their line to support scalp issues) and Paul Mitchell’s Tea Tree line of products is one you can refer to. Sometimes carrying common brands will help your client feel more at ease. If you are not sure what products to recommend, you can call your district distributor for more information. Always follow manufacturer directions, even if it’s a simple product you have always used.  

Home Care Recommendations for Clients with Seborrheic Dermatitis 

Here are some general recommendations from the American Academy of Dermatology that clients can practice at home: 

  • Wash hair with lukewarm water. 
  • Make sure all the product is removed from the hair; product residue may cause the scalp to become irritated and induce a flare-up.  
  • Avoid hair products with fragrance or alcohol. 
  • Reduce stress as much as possible, as this helps reduce flare-ups. 
  • Protect the impacted areas and wear hats during cold, dry winter months to reduce flare-ups. 
  • Begin treating flare-ups the moment they begin. 

Other Client Options 

If your client wants to go with a more holistic approach, encourage them to do their research regarding any home remedies, including:   

  • Aloe Vera—anti-inflammatory properties 
  • Tea Tree Oil—antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties  
  • Coconut Oil—Helps reduce yeast; has anti-inflammatory properties 
  • Apple Cider Vinegar—antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties; must be diluted with water 
  • Vitamins E, C, and K to support the immune system 

Most Importantly! 

Remember, it is your job to do a scalp analysis on every client—even regular clients who come in religiously. Updating client record cards will also help you know what does and does not work for each client. Discuss what you find, make recommendations for care, and refer to others if it’s beyond your knowledge or scope. If you are unsure of what you are seeing, it is OK to refer the client to their medical professional.  


Josephine Granato has over 24 years of experience in the beauty industry and has cultivated a deep love for both practicing and teaching the art of cosmetology. In practice, she specializes in makeup, hairstyling, and cutting, and her work as a cosmetology educator, trainer, and administrator has included roles for Empire Beauty Schools and Tricoci University.  Whether in the salon or classroom, Granato says she is “dedicated to empowering individuals to discover and express their unique beauty through the art of cosmetology.”  


Resources 

Lundman, Paul. “Sebhorric Dermatitis: Overview.” American Academy of Dermatology Association. Last updated December 6, 2022. www.aad.org/public/diseases/a-z/seborrheic-dermatitis-overview. 

Milady Standard Cosmetology, 14th ed., Milady; 2022. 

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