posted on: 11/26/2024
Tools and products are key factors when cutting curly hair and trying to encourage a defined shape. Here’s how Evie Rivera, Sam Villa Ambassador and Redken artist, gets the best results for her clients with curly hair, including what to do during the dry fall and winter months.
Best Silhouette for Curly Hair
- Shaped Layers: “Layers work best with curly hair because they reduce bulk and enhance curl definition.”
- Round Shapes: “A rounded silhouette can balance the natural volume of curls while maintaining a fuller look.”
Various Approaches for Cutting Curly Hair
- Dry Cutting: “Curly hair is often best cut dry because curls have a different texture when wet, and their shape can shrink after drying. Dry cutting allows a stylist to see how curls fall naturally so they can trim accordingly—especially when someone has spiral curls or coils and they wear their hair curly most of the time. Dull shears can damage curly hair, causing split ends and frizz.”*
- Curl-by-Curl Cutting: “This is a technique where each curl is individually assessed and cut, ensuring each curl pattern is respected and highlighted.”
- Wet Cutting for Uniformity: “Sometimes cutting hair wet can be more manageable, especially if the curls are loopy or lazy. Cut hair wet if the guest tends to wear hair both naturally and straightened; it will appear more uniform when straightened with this method. First, detangle hair and then cut.”**
Fall and Winter Products for Curly Hair
- Hydrating Creams: “Cooler weather dries out curls, so hair needs moisture. Creams and/or oils help with hydration.”
- Leave-In Conditioners: “Look for a creamy leave-in conditioner that will add moisture, prevent frizz, and help retain moisture.”***
- Anti-Frizz Serums: “Use lightweight serums to lock in moisture and add shine. Silicone-based serums are great for sealing the cuticle and fighting humidity-induced frizz.”
- Deep Conditioning Treatments: “Weekly deep-conditioning treatments with rich ingredients like argan oil or keratin will help keep hair hydrated during colder months.”****
Best Way to Diffuse Curly Hair
- Air Dry: “Apply product of choice and distribute evenly with a brush or comb. Then, gently scrunch wet curls with hands to encourage their natural shape. Let air dry.”
- Blow Dry: “Apply product of choice, distribute evenly with a brush or comb, and gently scrunch wet curls with hands to encourage their natural shape. Use a blow dryer with a deep bowl diffuser to distribute heat more evenly and reduce frizz. Do not touch hair during the process; it will promote frizz. Use low heat or cool air to avoid heat damage. Lay the guest back and rest their head on the back of the chair to diffuse the top. After, have them flip their head to one side and then to the other. Lastly, flip head upside down to diffuse the back. Shuffle fingers to loosen up the root area at the base to create volume.
Four Products Evie recommends:
*Try Sam Villa Signature Series Dry Cutting Shears, they are sharp and precise.
**Try Sam Villa Thermal Ionic Pro Vent Brush and cut with Sam Villa Signature Series Swivel Shears.
***Try Redken’s All Soft Mega Curls Hydramelt.
****Redken’s Acidic Bonding Concentrate 5-Min Liquid Mask is a good one.
Evie Rivera is a Sam Villa Ambassador and Redken artist. Find her work at @the_evierivera.
Sam Villa is co-founder and chief creative officer of the Sam Villa Company, a leading education and styling tool company. He is also Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken 5th Avenue, a L’Oréal brand. Villa is the recipient of the 2023 INKD Icon Leadership Award, 2021 NAHA Educator of the Year, and Hair Awards USA Hall of Fame Inducteej. Learn more at samvilla.com.